Southern Spain - so much to see in such a short time. I grouped these three together since I only stayed one night in each town.
I took the night bus from Lisbon to Sevilla (they didn't have a train). It didn't make for a very good night's sleep and I got into Sevilla at 5:30am. I had directions to the hostel (hoping to drop off the pack and get organized for the day), so I decided I could walk, even if it was early in the morning. I got about 1/2 block and reason set it (more like I heard mom freaking out because I walked that early in the morning in the dark). I turned around and got a taxi to the hostel. I was able to store my bag and crashed for about 2 hours on the couch in the common room. The best sleep I had all night.
Then it was off to lose myself in the neighborhoods for awhile. I spent the afternoon in the cathedral. It's in the Guiness Book of World Records for having the largest area. And that it does. The organ has 7,000 pipes (hence the random picture I found on my camera later). And I couldn't leave without a picture of Columbus's tomb. I mean, Columbus was a true hero - at least wasn't that what they taught us in our American schools? In the treasury I found a statue with a golden crown filled with jewels, including the world's largest pearl. It sounds to me like Sevilla is trying really hard to compete with more famous cities like Madrid and Barcelona by putting itself on the map somehow.
My next stop was Cordoba. With its orange tree lined streets, I couldn't help but think of Rick and I picking oranges from Grandmommie's orange tree in the backyard. Both of us climbing to the highest branches we could, to reach the oranges.
Cordoba's biggest attraction is the Mezquita, a mosque turned cathedral. The mosque survives on the outer portions of the building while smack in the middle is the cathedral. It was very interesting to walk through both parts comparing and contrasting the two styles. Light, dark, lively, reflective, loud, quiet, muted, colorful. Interesting.
Then it was off to Granada. You can really see the Moorish/Islamic influence in this town. The walkways to the hostel were lined with Islamic shops with incense burning and hookahs going. The first day I toured the town, saw the statue of Columbus and Queen Isabel, and spent some time people watching from Plaza Nueva. Then it was off to the Royal Chapel and the tombs of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabel. Next was the cathedral (yes, another one). I think I am about cathedraled out.
The next day was the Alhambra, what brings most people to Granada. The greatest part about traveling in the off season - no ticket lines or reservations needed for the big sights. I just walked up, got my ticket (there was only one other person in line) and walked right onto the grounds. Amazing! Especially since this great Moorish palace is said to get 8,000 visitors a day.
There were four parts to the Alhambra. My favorite was the Palacios Nazaries - the Moorish palace. The Generalife Gardens were great, but it had started to drizzle. Not a good thing when you are walking outside through gardens.
I was on the night train to Barcelona, so I spent the rest of the late afternoon and evening chilling in the common room of the hostel. I met Gabe who lives in Berkely and is interested in moving to Colorado. He had been working for his uncle in Portugal in construction and had been traveling around. We had a great, long conversation about life. He was debating on going back to Morroco where he met and fell for a girl in the Peace Corp, or traveling to Colorado. I think by the end of the conversation I had him convinced to come to Colorado. And as much as it pained me, he had Boulder written all over him. I tried to sell him on the merits of Fort Collins, but I think he is just a Boulderite by heart.
And then I almost missed my train! Stupid 24 hour clock, it messes me up every time! Thanks Rick, for pushing me to check my departure time and do the math again. I sprang for the taxi instead of walking to the station and made it. Thank you, bro!
Sunday, December 11, 2011
Lisbon, Portugal
Another long day of traveling, this time by bus. I like trains much better than busses I am finding out. I get into town and find a taxi, my limited map didn't even show where my hostel was, so there was no way I could walk there. I showed the name of the hostel and the address to the driver and he has no idea where it is. Great! He asks another cabbie, gets directions, and we are off. We had to stop 3 different times for more directions, but he finally got me there.
The hostel may have been hard to find, but it was well worth it. One of the best I have stayed in. The staff was so friendly, introducing themselves and remembering my name when they greeted me each time they saw me. The common room was filled with people coming and going and willing to talk with others. The hostel has 3 buildings in the area and that night they had all 3 chefs together creating various Italian dishes for dinner that night. It was a great night, and I had a 4-person room all to myself.
Lisbon is very similar to San Francisco. It's very hilly, the bridge looks like the Golden Gate (same builders I found out), and it even has trollies. The town is on the water, but doesn't have the wharfs and piers of San Fran; no sea lions either.
The main touristy area was leveld in the 1755 earthquake - another similarity to San Fran. When they rebuilt the area, they fit it to a nice grid making it very easy to get around. The other touristy area I visited was much harder to navigate. Streets that twist and turn and change names frequently, hills that seem to end, but don't, and a map that didn't list all the steets made this area a challenge.
I may have only gotten to see one city in Portugal, however my bus ride showed me a lot of the country itself.
The hostel may have been hard to find, but it was well worth it. One of the best I have stayed in. The staff was so friendly, introducing themselves and remembering my name when they greeted me each time they saw me. The common room was filled with people coming and going and willing to talk with others. The hostel has 3 buildings in the area and that night they had all 3 chefs together creating various Italian dishes for dinner that night. It was a great night, and I had a 4-person room all to myself.
Lisbon is very similar to San Francisco. It's very hilly, the bridge looks like the Golden Gate (same builders I found out), and it even has trollies. The town is on the water, but doesn't have the wharfs and piers of San Fran; no sea lions either.
The main touristy area was leveld in the 1755 earthquake - another similarity to San Fran. When they rebuilt the area, they fit it to a nice grid making it very easy to get around. The other touristy area I visited was much harder to navigate. Streets that twist and turn and change names frequently, hills that seem to end, but don't, and a map that didn't list all the steets made this area a challenge.
I may have only gotten to see one city in Portugal, however my bus ride showed me a lot of the country itself.
Friday, December 2, 2011
Santiago de Compostela, Spain
I spent most of my Thanksgiving on a train to Santiago. It was dark when I got into town (not hard to do in the winter, plus it was an 11 hour ride), so I took my first taxi of this trip. I haven't been in a car for 6 weeks. Strange, seeing as my life seemed to have revolved around my car back in the States. Ok, it wasn't quite that bad, but it is definitely different here.
Santiago de Compostela is known as the end of the camino de Santiago. Since the Middle Ages pilgrims have walked or ridden horses across Northern Spain to pay homage to the remains of St. James. The cathedral has almost a mystical feel to it. Maybe it's just the weary and worn out pilgrims that are so full of excitment to finally have made it. There were a few milling about as I was there. The cathedral is the main site to this town, so I spent the rest of my time wandering through strees in the main area of town.
I feasted on grilled prawns for my Thanksgiving dinner, with their heads still on, I might add. I still can't get used to that one. The tv behind the bar at the restaurant had on a story about traditional American Thanksgiving meals being served in parts of Spain. Mostly in bigger cities like Madrid and Barcelona. I couldn't understand all of it, they talk so fast! I got a couple of words and the pictures shown on the screen. I guess I always thought of Thanksgiving as an American holiday and one that the rest of the world wouldn't really care about. Evidently not.
And Black Friday is widespread as well. The paper in the cafe the next morning was full of ads for Black Friday sales. They even called it Black Friday. Weird. I always knew of Black Friday as the day after Thanksgiving. But if you don´t celebrate Thanksgiving, how do you know when Black Friday is? Do they know it as the last Friday in November? Hmmm.
Santiago de Compostela is known as the end of the camino de Santiago. Since the Middle Ages pilgrims have walked or ridden horses across Northern Spain to pay homage to the remains of St. James. The cathedral has almost a mystical feel to it. Maybe it's just the weary and worn out pilgrims that are so full of excitment to finally have made it. There were a few milling about as I was there. The cathedral is the main site to this town, so I spent the rest of my time wandering through strees in the main area of town.
I feasted on grilled prawns for my Thanksgiving dinner, with their heads still on, I might add. I still can't get used to that one. The tv behind the bar at the restaurant had on a story about traditional American Thanksgiving meals being served in parts of Spain. Mostly in bigger cities like Madrid and Barcelona. I couldn't understand all of it, they talk so fast! I got a couple of words and the pictures shown on the screen. I guess I always thought of Thanksgiving as an American holiday and one that the rest of the world wouldn't really care about. Evidently not.
And Black Friday is widespread as well. The paper in the cafe the next morning was full of ads for Black Friday sales. They even called it Black Friday. Weird. I always knew of Black Friday as the day after Thanksgiving. But if you don´t celebrate Thanksgiving, how do you know when Black Friday is? Do they know it as the last Friday in November? Hmmm.
San Sebastian, Spain
Time for some rest and relaxation. I just hope the weather cooperates. The place I wanted to stay was closed, so I found another pension that was close by. It worked out great. They gave me my own little suite with a kitchen. The bathroom was still down the hall, though. Weird. They give me my own kitchen, but I have to share a bathroom? You would think it would be the other way around, wouldn't you?
The first afternoon I walked barefoot through the sandy beach, then sat and watched the sunset. I was missing my fellow sandcastle maker, though. (Kitty, tell Riley I really wanted to make a sandcastle and thought of him.) Then I watched the sunset from the beach. Pretty amazing. After some down time in the room (sunset was before 6 and restaurants don't even open for dinner until 8 pm), I joined the locals in a paseo (walk) while trying to decide on a restaurant for dinner. This time my paseo was on the walkway just up from the beach.
I was really looking forward to some fresh seafood, so I splurged and ordered the lobster. I had forgotten, however, that they serve everything whole. They literally cooked the lobster, split it in half, and served it to me on a plate. I had to remember how to eat the edible parts while leaving the rest. My plate was a mutilated mess when I was finished, but it was good!
The next day was raining, not exactly beachy weather. I tried to go for a walk in the rain with my umbrella, but the wind kept unending the umbrella. I finally said heck with it, found a cafe, and sat reading my book for about 3 hours. I would rather have been reading on the beach, but the cafe at least overlooked the water. Not a bad few hours I would say.
My last day was a mixture of clouds and sun. I went to spend some more time on the beach, but the high tides kept me from finding a good spot to settle down. I kept having to get out of the way of the water that was bent on chasing after me.
I came to San Sebastian for some chill time, no bus or train schedules, no museums or sights, no getting lost in neighborhoods. While here I had good seafood, read my books (finally got to The Hunger Games - soooo good), and soul searching walks on the beach. Mission accomplished. More sightseeing ahead.
The first afternoon I walked barefoot through the sandy beach, then sat and watched the sunset. I was missing my fellow sandcastle maker, though. (Kitty, tell Riley I really wanted to make a sandcastle and thought of him.) Then I watched the sunset from the beach. Pretty amazing. After some down time in the room (sunset was before 6 and restaurants don't even open for dinner until 8 pm), I joined the locals in a paseo (walk) while trying to decide on a restaurant for dinner. This time my paseo was on the walkway just up from the beach.
I was really looking forward to some fresh seafood, so I splurged and ordered the lobster. I had forgotten, however, that they serve everything whole. They literally cooked the lobster, split it in half, and served it to me on a plate. I had to remember how to eat the edible parts while leaving the rest. My plate was a mutilated mess when I was finished, but it was good!
The next day was raining, not exactly beachy weather. I tried to go for a walk in the rain with my umbrella, but the wind kept unending the umbrella. I finally said heck with it, found a cafe, and sat reading my book for about 3 hours. I would rather have been reading on the beach, but the cafe at least overlooked the water. Not a bad few hours I would say.
My last day was a mixture of clouds and sun. I went to spend some more time on the beach, but the high tides kept me from finding a good spot to settle down. I kept having to get out of the way of the water that was bent on chasing after me.
I came to San Sebastian for some chill time, no bus or train schedules, no museums or sights, no getting lost in neighborhoods. While here I had good seafood, read my books (finally got to The Hunger Games - soooo good), and soul searching walks on the beach. Mission accomplished. More sightseeing ahead.
Madrid, Spain
Eventhough I am finally in a country where I can understand some of the language, it makes me realize just how much of this language I have lost. I can get by with a very basic vocabulary, but am nowhere near fluent.
I took a couple of different walks through parts of the city. Knowing I am only here for a couple of days, I stuck to the touristy center of the city. The hotel was a cute little family run place. The mom spoke almost no English, but the son and daughter did. I am glad I read about the neighborhood I was staying in before I got here, and was prepared for it. It wasn't really that bad, Mom. In Madrid prostitution is legal, provided you are over 18. Each night, and even during the day, the street would be practically lined with women dressed very provacativley. At least as a female traveler, they weren't coming after me.
The guys at the gold for cash places were another matter. They were very pushy and in your face trying to get you to come into the store. And what is with the lotto ticket craze here? I don't know what that is about. Each morning the stands that sell tickets would have lines at least 20 people deep, and there would be at least 6 of these stands in one plaza. And the women with their own lotto ticket kiosks were constantly yelling things out to the crowd of people to get them to buy tickets. And I thought Americans were bad about their lotto ticket habits. They are nothing compared to Madrid.
That evening at dinner, I was sitting next to a couple from Vegas that were out here for work. They work for some kind of show, I never got the name of which one. Their box office manager just up and quit, so these 2 were flown out to clean up the mess that was left and pull together the show. We had a Great time at dinner that night! The wine was flowing and so was the conversation. Lots of laughter and random topics, one of which centered around speaking mostly in adverbs. You had to be there, I know. One of the waiters who spoke a little English was laughing at us. It was a good thing the restaurant was just down the street from the hotel.
The next day was spent at the Royal Palace. While the "royal family" of Spain no longer lives there, the palace is still used for many events and functions. The rooms were pretty impressive I must say. No pictures were allowed and the guards were very strict on that one. The rest of the afternoon was spent walking through the park, that is until it started raining.
My last day in Madrid was also rainy, so I hit the Prado Museum. It houses some of the most important and famous paintings in Spain. The English handout actually listed them all, so I decided my mission was to find them all. What else was I going to do on a rainy day in Spain? It took about 4 hours, but I did it.
My next stop is my beach time in San Sebastian!! Can't wait.
I took a couple of different walks through parts of the city. Knowing I am only here for a couple of days, I stuck to the touristy center of the city. The hotel was a cute little family run place. The mom spoke almost no English, but the son and daughter did. I am glad I read about the neighborhood I was staying in before I got here, and was prepared for it. It wasn't really that bad, Mom. In Madrid prostitution is legal, provided you are over 18. Each night, and even during the day, the street would be practically lined with women dressed very provacativley. At least as a female traveler, they weren't coming after me.
The guys at the gold for cash places were another matter. They were very pushy and in your face trying to get you to come into the store. And what is with the lotto ticket craze here? I don't know what that is about. Each morning the stands that sell tickets would have lines at least 20 people deep, and there would be at least 6 of these stands in one plaza. And the women with their own lotto ticket kiosks were constantly yelling things out to the crowd of people to get them to buy tickets. And I thought Americans were bad about their lotto ticket habits. They are nothing compared to Madrid.
That evening at dinner, I was sitting next to a couple from Vegas that were out here for work. They work for some kind of show, I never got the name of which one. Their box office manager just up and quit, so these 2 were flown out to clean up the mess that was left and pull together the show. We had a Great time at dinner that night! The wine was flowing and so was the conversation. Lots of laughter and random topics, one of which centered around speaking mostly in adverbs. You had to be there, I know. One of the waiters who spoke a little English was laughing at us. It was a good thing the restaurant was just down the street from the hotel.
The next day was spent at the Royal Palace. While the "royal family" of Spain no longer lives there, the palace is still used for many events and functions. The rooms were pretty impressive I must say. No pictures were allowed and the guards were very strict on that one. The rest of the afternoon was spent walking through the park, that is until it started raining.
My last day in Madrid was also rainy, so I hit the Prado Museum. It houses some of the most important and famous paintings in Spain. The English handout actually listed them all, so I decided my mission was to find them all. What else was I going to do on a rainy day in Spain? It took about 4 hours, but I did it.
My next stop is my beach time in San Sebastian!! Can't wait.
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