Sunday, October 30, 2011

Halstatt, Austria

Sorry Belgium, but you just got bumped off the number 1 spot for favorite country. Austria has now taken that spot. Austria is absolutely beautiful, Halstatt in particular. The town sits on the edge of a huge lake. The mountains seem to grow right from the middle of the lake. The fall colors are everywhere! Leaves are changing and falling creating a colorful blanket on the ground. In Colorado it seems like the leaves changing is so short. One day the trees are green and the next time you turn around they are already on the ground, or covered in snow. I have been enjoying the fall colors over here for the past two weeks, and it looks like I will get several more days to enjoy them.

There is not a lot to see or do in this small town, you are here just to sit, relax, and enjoy the views. However, the clouds and rain have begun, so that makes it a bit difficult.

I sat down to dinner at the hotel restaurant (evidently tomorrow is a holiday in Austria and many places are booked; I found out later the hostel was closed for the holiday). I had just ordered and the couple next to me asked if I wanted to join them. Here is where the world gets small.  Her name is Kitty, and his is George. They are from Austin, Texas, but have a niece that is a phd student at CSU In Ft. Collins! Crazy.

The next day I went to my first salt mine. It was a pretty cool experience even if it is all guided and you can't do much. They outfit you in some "miner's clothes" and you walk a long way into the salt mine.The guide spoke both German and English and translated the whole tour. There was a video explaining the process and a laser show explaining the history of salt mining. You do get to slide down two wooden shoots during the tour. On one of them, they even take your picture and clock how fast you were going. Of course, I just had to buy the picture at the end of the tour, I mean when else am I going to get a picture of myself in goofy clothes sliding down a piece of wood?

Kitty and George were also on the tour and they introduced me to Korinna (they had met at breakfast). Korinna is from Austrailia and has been traveling since August. We talked quite a bit about our travels and such. She has traveled in Singapore, Hungary, London, and Germany on her trip.

Seeing as the hostel was closed and I really didn't want to spend another 80 euros for another night at the hotel (there are so many better ways to spend my cash), I left for Salzburg a little early.

Monday, October 24, 2011

Wurzburg, Germany

For as much time as I have spent here, I don't feel like I have done much. I did use the free wifi to get caught up on my blogs, as you can see. And I did laundry, which is turning out to be a real process with a very old machine that is taking Forever!

I did tour the main part of the town. The Palace Residence was really cool, but I wasn't allowed to take any pictures. I only got to view about 20 rooms in this massive building. It makes me wonder what all the rooms that are not open to the public look like.

Then I walked up to the fortress on the hill above the town. But seeing as it is a Monday, the museum and other sights up there were closed. I did get to walk around and got a great view of the town.  A piece of history about Wurzburg. The main bridge used to be the only entrance into town, not that big a deal, right? Well, it was this way until the 1960's in Wurzburg! There would be a big backup of traffic trying to get into town.

There is a restaurant/bar right on the bridge. It used to be the old mill. They have like a take out window where you can buy a glass of wine and enjoy it on the bridge. Open alcohol containers, you betcha. A geat way to pass some time on a chilly, but sunny Sunday afternoon!

Favorites, part 1

After 2 weeks of traveling, these are my favorites thus far:

country - Belgium
town - Baden Baden
walk - 1st, to Burg Eltz, 2nd, thru vineyards between Riquewihr and Kaysersberg
castle - Burg Eltz
meal - chicken and noodles with Reisling sauce
museum - Museum of Crime and Punishment in Rothenburg
hotel/hostel - Hotel am Markt in Baden Baden
cathedral - The Gothic Dom in Koln, Germany

country I want to come back to - Belgium

Least favorites:
meal - German  bratwurst
hotel/hostel - Hotel Primo Colmar, France

People

Overall the people over here are really nice. Most do speak at least some English. Those in the touist industry are fluent and readily speak English for me. Many locals do not speak English. One elderly woman outside of Kaysersberg said something to me in German while we were walking through the vineyards. When I responded with "English?" she threw her hands up in the air and made this sound as if to say, oh nevermind, and kept walking.

When I have stayed in rooms at hostels with other people in them (a lot of rooms have just been me), the people I'm staying with do speak English, or at least have a good understanding of it.

But, Everybody here smokes. I knew a lot of Europeans smoked, but it is kind of hard to find someone who doesn't. You can't smoke inside any building, but you can smoke by standing in the doorway. You can't smoke inside the train station, but the outside platform is fair game. And many people roll their own cigarettes. The first time I saw it was by a girl about my age on a bus in Amsterdam, so I wasn't exactly sure what she was rolling. But I have seen it several times since, by many different people.

Since everyone here speaks German, and I don't know really any German, I have been reluctant to sit down with people I don't know and just start talking. When I hear people speaking English I tend to be more open to popping in to their conversation.

I am finding German to be a hard language to try and learn. I am relying more on my English here.

food

So far, I have learned I am not a fan of German food. I tried a real German bratwurst - I'll stick with the American version, thank you. The fries here are better than Belgium, no mayo. But they do not serve them with any kind of condiment, so they tend to be very dry. I had dinner at the hostel the other night, bratwurst or frankfooter. I chose the hot dog. It was one of those really long ones, with no bun. They do not serve their brats or dogs with any sort of bun. I go around the corner and low and behold, there is a bowl of ketchup! The first I have seen in Germany.

But the pretzels are really good. They are the big fat ones. I have had several since I have been here. They make a good snack or supplement to a meal I'm not fond of.

I don't know enough German to feel confident ordering off a completely German menu. Most of the places I have been to have English translations for their dishes. There was this one night in Germany when I wasn't having any luck finding a restaurant with an English menu. I did spot a Mexican food place. I looked at their menu (posted outside) and knew enough Spanish to understand the title of the dish, even if I couldn't understand the German explanations. I thought I would take a chance. I ordered the chicken fajitas. I figured if there was anything weird on the plate, I just wouldn't put it in my tortilla. Boy, was I wrong. Normally everything is separated on your dish, the rice, the beans, then the chicken and veggies. Not this time. The white rice, corn mixture, and chicken were all covered in this tomato paste salsa. The chicken was very heavily spiced, not hot spice, but like Ethiopian spices. I tried to pick my way under the tomato paste salsa, but it was difficult. Let's just say, it was a night I found a pretzle stand afterwards. The pizza here is pretty good, and I am stocking up on Haribo gummy bears. It took me a week to find them here, but I did. :)

transportation

Oh, where to start? I am finally figuring out how to decipher the train and bus schedules in languages I don't know. I am finding most people working at train stations (ticket counters and information stations) speak English.  Busses are a hit and miss. I am at least learning the name for bus station and train station.

I was on a bus in France and trying to say the word for train station - GARE.  Having just spent time in Germany, I found I was trying to put a German accent on the word and was getting nowhere with the driver, who did not speak English. I finally had to resort to holding up my arm like I was pulling a cord and said choo choo. She got it! Thank goodness for universal signs and sounds.

Many of the smaller train stations have only a few tracks and their train schedule is posted (including the platform number), so you just wait by your track/platform for your train. Many of the bigger stations, don't have their schedules posted. They keep you in the big waiting area. There is a big board with all the departing train info. 20 mins. before your scheduled departure, the platform number will come up and you can go through the door to your platform.

I am finding that I can recognize by sight the name of the town or stop I want, but have absolutely no idea how to say it. And being unfamiliar with the area, I have no idea what the station or stop should look like, so I am constantly checking the board or sign where it is posted. Yes, I still very much feel like a tourist, but I know that is to be expected when you are going from place to place so quickly.

Rotenberg ob de Tauber

I feel like I have stepped back in time to the Middle Ages.  And, of course, there is the Kathe Wolfarht Christmas Market. Yay! Time to do some shopping.

On my first night I took the night watchman's tour. He was funny, informative, and sarcastic. What a wonderful way to learn a bit about the town, and have some laughs while doing it. And since it was an English tour, I got to meet some other Americans as well. The night was perfect for this kind of tour-classic end of October weather, cold and foggy. It really gave the tour an extra medival feel.

There are some great walking paths that run down from the town and go through the countryside and vineyards.  The castle gardens are beautiful. Lots of benches in the sun, which is something I was searchimg for in this chilly fall weather. I spent a lot of time in these gardens warming in the sun and journaling. I'm listening to the chiming bells from the church. I assume that is the call for the beginning of service. It is a Sunday, afterall.

Kathe Wolfarht actually has 3 stores in this town, all within a block of each other.  I only made it into two of them. It was a little overwhelming. I did find a few things to add to my holiday collection. I just hope they all arrive in one piece.

I am really enjoying tourist towns in the shoulder season (the tail end of the tourist season). No crowds, no lines, it's peaceful and quiet most of the time. What a great time to travel!



Sunday, October 23, 2011

Baden Baden, Germany

What a beautiful town! There are lots of pedestrian friendly squares, gardens, and wooded areas up the hill - it kind of reminds me of Sudden Valley in Washington. My hotel is right next to the Catholic cathedral and I woke up to the chiming church bells.

I spent the first evening wandering around a bit, I seem to be doing a lot of that.  The people are friendly and will happily speak English when they realize I don't speak any German.

The next afternoon I went to a traditional Roman-Irish bath. You go through 15 stations emercing yourself in the supposedly medicinal waters. Of course, you are doing this all in the nude. Talk about stepping outside of one's comfort zone, but as the saying goes, when in Rome . . .

I went on a day where the men and women were basically separated (same steps, but on opposite sides, with a comingled area in the center.The hardest part was stepping out of the changing room. I had a brief moment of anxiety, was I really going to do this? But it quickly passed and I got over it. Europe really does have a different take on nudity than the states. There was no oogling or weirdness at all.

They started you off with a warm air room; I really liked this one, then a hot air room, then a soap scrub down. This was kind of rough, but worth it. The lady doing it said I would have very nice skin afterwards. Then it was off to the hot mineral steam room, then a dip in the warm water pool, then the cool water pool (the comingled one), luckily there were only females in there with me. Then a quick trip in the tepid water pool, to be followed with the cold water plunge, then back to the tepid pool, which now feels so much warmer.  They say you need to do the cold water plunge 3 times because it is good for the heart. I don't know about that, but I did it 3 times anyway. Next was a hot shower, then a cream lotion rubdown and finish with 30 mins wrapped in a warm blanket in the quiet room.

I came out totally relaxed and would Love to see one of these in the states, but I know it would never be allowed. I met a really nice German woman who spoke English and she helped explain the whole process to me. Then I ran into another American woman, from D.C. there. Who would have thought the first place I would meet others to talk to would be in the bath?

Later that evening, as I was journaling in the lounge area of the hotel, I met a couple from Texas. They were fellow Rick Steves readers. We talked for quite a bit about traveling. It was nice to finally start to meet some other travelers that also speak English.

Colmar, France and The Route de Vin - The Wine Road

Today I hit 2 countries in one day - Luxembourg and France. I was in Luxembourg for a very short time, then it was off to Colmar. None of the streets in Colmar are straight! It took what seemed like forever to find the TI to get a map, and then the map wasn't any better than the one I already had via Rick Steves. I finally found the hotel and that is a real stretch of the word. I stayed in my first really scuzzy place. It was so bad I refused to take a shower, and I perfected the squat so you don't touch Anything pee! But they had free wifi, so I made the best of it.

Colmar itself is a very cute little town with lots of pedestrian areas and cobbled streets everywhere. I finally just put away the map and accepted the fact that I would get lost. That first evening I wandered just to wander.

I went to an Alastian place recommended by RS and LOVED it! I got the chicken in Reisling sauce with homemade noodles. It reminded me of Grandmommie's homemade chicken and noodles. (I want to get the receipe from her even if I never have time to make the whole thing from scratch.) My best meal so far.

Route de Vin

I started with the very small and quaint village of Riquewihr. The bus from Colmar dropped me off early, like 8 am, it was either that or 11 am, which would not have given me enough time. It was so early the majority of the town wasn't even out and about yet. The stores were all closed, so I just wandered and became acquainted with this really cute village.

I went to my first real wine tasting. What a great experience. The host spoke English, a great plus and suggested some really great wines. I knew the Alsace region was best known for it's white wines and I got to taste why. I am mormally not a white wine person, but I actually found a couple I liked. I bought 2 bottles to take with me and enjoy along the way.

Then I took this incredible walk from Riquewhir to Kaysersberg. Two hours through picturesque vineyards; peaceful, reflective, zen, and absolutely beautiful! I spent a few hours in Kaysersberg before catching the bus back to Colmar. I tried to not let the scuzzy hotel get in the way of my otherwise amazing day.

The next day was cold, dreary, and raining. Blah! So, I hit the museum, a great way to spend a rainy morning.  I was set to travel to Strasbourg in the afternoon and tour the city, pretty hard to do in the rain. I figured I would play it by ear and see what the weather was like when I got there. Low and behold, it stopped raining, for the most part. I decided to chance it and see the cathedral and at least some of the town. On my way, it started raining once again, so I had to buy an umbrella. And mom said I shouldn't pack mine because I wouldn't really need it, think again. :) So now I am carrying around an umbrella and ready for the next time it rains.

Thursday, October 20, 2011

Burg Eltz castle - Germany

I am so glad Rick Steves wrote such an amzing review on this castle because it made me want to come!  And it was really off the beaten path.  I had to take a small train then walk 2 hours just to get there. But it was well worth the trip!  The walk was through a wooded forest with a little stream.  It made me feel like I was in a fairy tale just waiting for the wood nymphs and fairies to come out and greet me.  There was something almost magical about the journey. 

The castle itself was amazing!  It was huge - 80 rooms.  3 different families lived here at one time.  They each had their own section and there was a common room for important meetings.  I was lucky to get an English tour of the castle which really helped.  So far, this has been my favorite castle I have visited.

I did try my first German bratwurst.  I have to say, I wasn't a fan.  So far, the German food isn't my favorite so to speak, which is a little weird seeing as I am mostly German.

The hostel I stayed in was really big, but once again, I had a room all to myself.  So much for meeting all kinds of new travelers along the way.  This was another family oriented hostel, so even at the meals or in the lounge area it was families all sitting together speaking German, or course.  Not knowing much German at all, it is hard to try to join in their conversation.

I left to catch a 7:30 am train, not too early by my standards, but found the reception desk at the hostel wasn't even staffed until 8 am.  The housekeeping staff I found spoke only German, which didn't help, so I ended up just leaving the key and some cash on the desk.  I wasn't sure what else I could do. 

Monday, October 17, 2011

Germany-Koln and Bacharach

I had my first experience with getting on the wrong train! I really hope it is my last as well; it wasn't much fun at all. But, the train was at least going in the right direction, so that's a good thing. Eventually, I ended up being able to get where I had wanted to go, which is another good thing. It was also a day I was using my railpass so all my train travel was included.
I started off the day by going to Koln (or Colonge to us English speaking people) for a quick stop before continuing on. The cathedral, the reason so many people visit, was pretty amazing, and right outside the train station, a plus.
I was later than I wanted getting back to the station, mistake one. There was a train already at the platform I wanted and I assumed it was the train I needed, mistake two. I tried asking someone, but they only spoke German, so that didn't work out. It turned out to be regional train, not the faster one. It was going in the same direction, just not as far. Then the town I wanted apparently had 3 stations with very similar names. I got off on the wrong one and had to wait for the next train to take me to the right station. I get on the train and realize this one has an actual list of its stops (i reaaly like this feature, by the way) and it will actually take me to the town I want (or so I think).


I get off the train and get the time for my boat cruise down the Rhine. Life seems to be good now. Use my map from Rick Steves to find the road up to the castle (I have some time to kill before my boat arrives). Walking, walking, walking, all uphill and not finding the top. Cars are looking at me funny. Come to find out later, I am on the other side of the Rhine from where I want to be, in a very similarly named town, and the road I am walking on is the highway. No wonder cars were looking at me funny!
I get on the boat and enjoy my hour long cruise down the river to Bacharach. Once there, I try to find the flatter route up to the castle, which is also the hostel, so cool. But, no luck. I have to backtrack and take the steep trail, with my pack and all. Over 500 stairs later, I finally get to the castle. I am trying to wipe the sweat off me before I go in, and find out from the receptionist they are full! The only thing they have left is a mattress on the floor in the seminar room. I REALLY don't want to go back down 500 stairs to find another place, so I take it. It wasn't the best night's sleep, but it was something.
I got a Spectcular view the next morning - I will try to post a picture on fb later, I actually took one with the tablet. I walked back into town to find other accomodations for the evening, then spent a very relaxing, quiet day walking the streets in Bacharach and sitting in the park right on the Rhine. A much better ending than beginning, I must say!

Amsterdam

So I tried to download my pictures last night while I had Wifi access and discovered my cable from the camera to the computer wouldn't fit. Bummer!  I neded an adapter to make it fit. Luckily, there was an Apple store right across the street from my hotel in Amsterdam. Apple makes an adapter, but it only works on Apple products, not my tablet. The guy there tracks down info on where I can find one for the tablet, and off I go in search of the place.  I finally find the place and am told they only have the adapter for the ipad. Now what am I going to do? As I was walking back to the main square I see a store with a tablet in the window. I go in and discover the places I thought were usb ports are actually the speakers. There are no usb ports on my tablet, apparently.  Long story to say that my computer will not connect to my camera which means no downloading of pictures until I can figure out another way. Any techies out there? (I did discover how to take pictures with the tablet, so I should have some coming soon.)
Anyway, on to other parts of Amsterdam. I wasn't there for too long, and with all the looking for the right cords, there wasn't much time for a lot else. I did get to Anne Frank's house, which is what I really wanted. Being at the house where she and her family were hidden for so long brings a new reality to the story I had read so long ago. It makes me want to see it again.
I did find a little Italian restaurant. I was in the mood for some pasta.  While I was eating this little kitten comes down from upstairs and is wondering around the restaurant. I don't know about you, but that seems a little unsanitary to me. It made me think twice about taking another bite of my so-called chicken pasta.
So far, the people seem nice and helpful, and most everyone speaks at least a little English.

Thursday, October 13, 2011

Belgium

The day started off rainy and kind of blah, weather wise. I persevered anyway. Lots of walking the streets and getting somewhat lost, but that's ok, since that is what I am here for anyway. I went back to the hostel for my siesta :) and woke up to sunny skies. Yay! I went back to the parks that I skipped b/c of the weather.

I found loads of chocolate shops. The truffles are Amazing! The fries (which they are supposed to be known for as well) were ok. I missed my ketchup, mayo is just not supposed to go on fries.

I'm getting more comfortable finding my way around, especially after sightseeing in a place for the day.

Tomorrow is Amsterdam!

London

Whew! My first day of traveling is done. I am so glad I started this journey in an English speaking and written language. It was hard enough just to get acclimated to my new surroundings, I can't imagine what it would have been like if I had to juggle a new language as well. I found myself relying on being able to read the signs to get to where I needed to go. Even with that, I got lost. :-)

I sure did a lot of walking today, and it wasn't even a full sightseeing day. I know eventually I will get used to the weight of my pack, but for now, it is still heavy.

The weather in London was just how I thought it would be, cloudy and a bit breezy, typical London weather. With all the walking I was doing, it didn't take me long to warm up.

I got into Heathrow about 10 this morning. After going through customs, one stamp down, and situatung the pack, I was off about 11am. I took the tube into town and got turned around after coming back above ground. I finally got my bearings, then it was off to reserve my ticket on the Eurostar going through The Chunnel to Belgium (one of the modern wonders of the world down)


Now I am sitting in the train station awaiting my train to Bruge. I know, really quick trip through London, but I know I can always come back. London is one of those cities that you can visit anytime of year. So off to Belgium it is. I know a lot of people speak English there, but it is the signs I am worried about. Maybe it is time to break out the charades.

Cheers!