Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Amboise, France

My hostel is really cool. Well, not the hostel itself, but its location. The hostel itself is pretty dead, which isn't so bad because it means I have my own room and it is pretty quiet. The hostel is located on the banks of the Loire River. There is even a sandy spot which is perfect for reading and journaling.

Amboise is right in the middle of castle haven, so of course I had to go check out a couple. While most of them are better reached with a car, I set my eyes on what looked like one of the cooler ones. That, and I could take a bus to reach it.  :-)

Chateau de Chenonceaux was built in the 16th century in a true Renaissance fashion. But this castle wasn't built for protection. It was built for pleasure. It has a different feel to it once you were inside. The grounds are filled with gardens, walking paths, huge trees, fountains, and a maze. The hedges only come up to about your shoulders, but it was still cool. It was easy to spend most of the day wandering the grounds around the castle.

Then it was back to the hostel for my wine and then settling down on the bank of the river to watch the sunset.  Tomorrow is yet again another castle in the morning. This starts my very long day of travel. My railpass is ready. Here it goes - Amboise to Blois, tour the castle in the morning, afternoon train to Paris, pass a few hours people watching and trying to find some filling food, then the night train to Madrid. Spain, here I come!

Mont St. Michel

Made the list of places to come back to. I didn't have much time there to explore; it turned out to be only 1/2 day due to train schedules, and early sunsets.

There is an abby that sits on the island. During the high tide, the water comes up to the door of the TI on the island. At low tide you can actually walk on the mud flats that connect the island to the mainland. However, between the incredibly fast moving tide as it comes in, the unpredictable thick fog, and the quicksand, I didn't risk it. See mom, I am growing up. Who am I kidding, the responsible first born wouldn't have taken the risk anyway. I will just take a guided tour, with a local guide, of the mudflats when I return.

I didn't get to go in the abby because it is off-season and closes much earlier, but I did get to watch the colorful sunset as I was walking out to the abby and I walked around the exterior at dusk. That was pretty amazing.

After a forgettable dinner of salmon pasta and a night in a small hotel with a great view of the sunrise in the morning, it was off to Amboise to see yet another castle. It's a good thing I really like castles and I am the one who put together this itinerary, so I knew what I was getting myself into.

Friday, November 25, 2011

Normandy, France

Definitely a place to come back to. Either rent a car to visit the beaches or take a guided tour. On the list to do when I come vack.

I stayed in the little town of Bayeaux, mostly known for the tapestry done of the Duke of Normandy and his rise to power. The cathedral in the center of town isn't too bad either.

I spent the next day at the WWII museum in Caen. It was very informative and useful. I had wanted to tour the beaches, but it is hard to do without a car or a reservation on a guided tour (neither of which I had).  That's ok, it just goes on the list of places to come back to. :-)

That night I was at a restaurant having finished my dinner and enjoying my dessert, when these 3 older gentlemen came in. They were everything you hear about Americans being in Europe. They were very loud and boistorous and didn't care that they were. And they weren't even American, they were Canadian!  As they sat down, I laughed at something one of them said, ice broken.

What first started out as 2 of them trying to set me up with the other who was in the restroom, soon turned into them trying to set me up with his son. A high school history teacher who loves to travel whose name is Ron. But he lives in Ottowa, and doesn't even know I exisit.

Another night of good food, great, fun conversation, and good company. Thanks fellas!!

Paris!

Getting here was quite the journey. I survived my first train strike (I was bound to hit one at some point in this journey), and I actually got to my destination. It only took 4 hours longer and 3 more exchanges than it should have, but I made it!

I knew I was in for some major sightseeing in Paris, but also knew, in 3 days, there was no way to see it all. I started with Notre Dam and a walk through the Latin Quarter. Notre Dam was really impressive and the stained glass in Saint Chapelle was incredible. Walking through the small cobbled streets of the Latin Quarter, you almost forgot you were in Paris. The hustle and bustle of the big city was gone, it was just you and the shop lined streets, and all the other tourists, of course.

A walk through the Tuileries Garden and some down time sitting in the sun by the fountains are a great way to pass the mid-afternoon. Then it was off to The Louve. Impressive paintings and incredible marble sculptures kept me busy for 3 hours. I hit the biggies and marveled at some of the lesser known. My English audioguide was my savior, as everything was in French, of course. I tried to steer away from the many Asian tour groups. And while I really enjoyed the paintings, I was more intrigued by the statues. Not exactly sure why. In 3 hours I still only made it through about 1/2 the museum.

A night stroll down Champ Elysees to find some dinner rounded out my evening. I got back to the hostel and checked in to my new room (they had me switch rooms from the night before) and realized I was the only girl in a room with 5 guys.

Now I remember why I don't like bunking with boys. They are smelly and messy. There were shavings and thoothpaste in the sink, towels strewn all over the bathroom, and the room smelled like feet. The only bed left was a top bunk. Yay for putting shorties on the top bunk (especially hose with no ladders). I did find a chair to use. I climbed up and was ready for sleep to overcome my tired body, when the snoring started. Great! This is gonna be a long night. I put on my ipod, which worked for awhile, but then the snoring got louder, so my music got louder. It still didn't work. I tossed and turned most of the night and finally gave in about 4:30 and got on the computer. Right after I posted on fb, the snoring stopped. I eased myself back down and managed about 2 hours sleep before it started again.

The next day was another busy one. I started with the Arc de Triomphe and a walk down Champs Elysse in the daylight (nighttime is better in my opinion) then off to the Orangerie Museum to see Monet's water lillies - the big one, 8 panels that take up 2 rooms. It's the entire upper floor of the museum. Just incredible to sit there and get lost in the paintings, no matter what direction you were facing.

Then off to wait in line at the Eiffel Tower. I knew it was big, but standing underneath the first level and seeing how far apart the "posts" were was incredible. I tried to time it right so I caught the sun setting from atop the tower. Beautiful, almost magical. So much so, it seemed sureal. And it hit me, I'm in Paris! You know how you hear people talk about Paris and you think, man I would love to go there sometime. Well, I am here now!! It's someday for me! Tomorrow is Versailles.

Wow, now that is a palace!! And the grounds were huge with immaculate gardens, too bad the flowers weren't in bloom. Beautiful fountains, and so many walking paths it was easy to get lost in them.  I imaginied myself as royalty for the day. Dressed in a gorgeous full gown walking down the staircase as if I was floating on air. Sitting down to dinner with the fancy china and silver. I can just picture myself waltzing through the ballroom. And although it would be so much fun for a few days, I know I would not have wanted to live during this time period.

Thursday, November 24, 2011

Gimmelwald, Switzerland

Wow! I'm in love! Switzerland, especially Gimmelwald has gotten me hooked!

While it's technically at a lower elevation than Ft. Collins, by about 500 ft, it feels so much higher. The mountains look very different as well. These just seem to be sheer rock faces that grow up out of nowhere. To me, the Rockies seem to have more ridges in front and foothills, so the mountain peaks seem more gradual.

This is an interesting time of year to visit Gimmelwald. Most everyting is closed; I hit the mountain hostel on its closing weekend. It is hard to find a restaurant open as well. But t is very quiet and peaceful without the crowds. The first afternoon I sat out on the terrace taking in the scenery, enjoying my book, and trying to recoup from Munich. It was a good thing too, seeing as the group at the hostel picked up where Munich left off.


Gimmelwald is breathtaking! Snow capped mountain peaks in every direction, amazing hikes, and plenty of cowbells. The weather was actually pretty good for the beginning of November. I wanted to take the gondola up to one of the peaks, but no such luck while I was there. The first day was too windy up top, so they shut down the gondola. The second day there was a conference of some sort that took over the entire top of the mountain, 400 people they said. So I did some smaller hikes and read my book. My calves are really sore. I think from the downhill portions of my hikes.

I was reading the guestbook at the hostel on my last night. It was filled with people saying things like, I came to Gimmelwald for 2 nights and stayed 5, this is what heaven must be like, and I know I will be coming back to this place.

It is hard to not sound cliche, but I totally agree! Gimmelwald made it on my list of places to come back to, like there was ever a doubt in that! And this time I will make it to the peak of the mountain. I am not leaving until I do!!

The scenic train ride through Switzerland was Gorgeous! On one leg of it I was on a classic old-time railcar. I got pics and took a video of it to post. (I guess I should do,that, huh?)  It was a really great ride. The route I chose made for a really long day. The best part was from Interlaken to Montreaux.

Saturday, November 12, 2011

Munich, Germany

I am reminded of the fact that I am not 21 anymore, but the last few days are worth the tiredness I feel now. Cheers to my Wombats family!

I had planned on meeting up with Carrie, from the Sound of Music tour, at the hostel in Munich, but arrived a day early. I had just sat down to email her and look over, and Carrie is there. Yay! We went to find some dinner. Good food, great conversation, and meeting up with a traveler from an earlier journey - great experience.

Monday I went to Nurnberg (Nuremburg in English). There is a museum that focuses on the history of how the Nazies actually got started. It was a great lesson in history and filled in many of the gaps that I don't remember learning in America.  I also walked around the area that was once his presentation area. The pictures in the museum helped you to visualize the thousands upon thousands of soldiers marching down the street and onto the grounds (4 sq miles).

As much as I don't agree with Hitler and detest what he stood for, the man really was intelligent and cunning.  He knew just what to say and give to the German people after WWI and they bought into him. It absolutely amazes me that it took over 10 years for any opposition to Hitler to take hold.

While I, as a traveler, enjoy all the information and signage around in Germany about the war, I realize it is something the German people still feel very shameful about. Except for the museum and a few signs, this area looks nothing like it did 60 years ago. There is a beautiful lake filled with native fish in the place where all the soldiers used to line up to hear Hitler speak. There is a kind of fairground they use for concerts and big community gatherings. The massively wide street the soldiers would march down is a parking lot for the events in the area.  Germans have done a good job of using the space for things that won't remind them of the horrible events every day. I am trying to be aware of their continued guilt surrounding these events as I am visually putting together the events and places in my own head. It proved to be a reflective day, for sure.

I got back to the hostel to meet Carrie for dinner, as she was off to Paris in the morning. She had met a girl named Caroline from Australia. We were talking in the common room about my day and I mentioned wanting to go to Dachau to the concentration camp memorial. Caroline said she would join me, then another American, Aaron, overheard us and wanted to come. Sweet, we were now a group of 3.

However, I wasn't sure they would be open, seeing as it was a holiday, All Saints Day. I went up to the reception desk to find out and got caught up in this hilarious conversation with Ozzie, who worked at the hostel. Customer relations and tour extraordinare. It was kind of like talking with someone with ADD on speed. Inuendos flying everywhere. My stomach was hurting I was laughing so much. Point being, yes the memorial was open tomorrow. The 3 of us decided on a meeting time for tomorrow and off to dinner we went. Aaron was meeting up with some other people, so the 3 girls set off. Knowing it was Halloween, we weren't sure what was in store for the night.

The next morning at breakfast we were discussing how to get to Dachau. There was a group train ticket for 2 -5 people. We had 3 and were joking about needing 2 more. Caroline leans over to 2 boys from Scotland sitting next to us, and just like that we had 2 more. They went upstairs to change and brought down another to join us. While waiting for the Scots we recruited another traveler sitting in the lobby. What had started as just me had quickly grown to a group of 7. Sweet!

We navigated the trams and busses, grabbed our audioguides once we arrived, agreed on a meeting time, and off we went. How to describe Dachau - intense, horrific, powerful, emotional. I walked the grounds of the actual camp, standing where thousands of prisoners stood every morning and night for roll call. They had to remain standing until everyone was accounted for, sometimes taking all night. I walked through the barracks where a room meant for 50 people was stuffed with over 400. Towards the back of the site were the religious monuments set up after the war. And finally to the crematorium and gas chamber they claim was never used for mass killings. They modeled the chamber at Aushwitz after the chamber at Dachau. Talk about a moving experience!

The museum was the most informative, yet emotional part of the memorial site. There was so much information inside, you could spend days there. I think one of the interviews from a survivor summed it up well. He was an American soldier that came to view Dachau during the war. He said it was like being on a different world. This couldn't possibly have been our planet. My whole experience at the site seemed so surreal.

During the course of the day, our group of 7 split into 2 groups, one that stayed at Dachau for a while longer, and one that went back to town. I think I spent about 5 hours at the memorial site. I could have stayed longer, but was emotionally spent, and they were closing soon.

We had dinner that night at the famouse beer hall, The Hafbrauhaus. The food was ok, but who comes for the food? It's all about the beer. I know Rick was there enjoying it with me. :) We got back to the hostel and caught up with the others who had been drinking for awhile. A night of booze, drinking games, and an Italian who couldn't speak a word of English but still managed to be the center of the party ensued. I made some new friends, had lots of laughs and little sleep.

My final day in Munich was filled with museums and the Naples vs. Munich soccer match! First on the list, The Residenz where the royalty of Bavaria once lived. Sadly this whole area was so badly damaged in the war, nothing is original. It has all been restored beautifully though. Two art museums were next up, art from the 17th - 20th centuries. A school group was inside, 2nd and 3rd graders, it looked like. The younger kids were gathered around and drawing one of Van Gogh's sunflowers. The older kids were creating their own version of one of Monet's water lillies. Can you imagine being 7 or 8 and standing in front of such famous works of art? Wow!

That night was the soccer match. We knew there was no way we were getting tickets. We had a group of 8, and it was a Champions League match. But we wanted to be part of the action anyway. We headed down to the stadium fairly early, just to check out the scene. We were hoping for a pub nearby with a tv. No such luck, the stadium is way out in the middle of nowhere. Just getting to walk around and mingle with the fans was exciting. We settled for watching the game from a pub around the corner from the hostel. A Champions League game - what a match! The Munich team won! Then it was back to the hostel for more drinks, and some much needed laundry time for me. Needless to say, I didn't get much sleep that night either.

Munich was a blast! An old city with a lot of history, fun new friends, food and drinks, lots of laughter, and plenty of memories! I was kind of sad to be leaving, but Switzerland is waiting.

Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Fussen, Germany

What a strange night! Here is a story for the books. So I get into town later than I had planned on and it was dark. I am wandering around with my limited street map and my flashlight trying to figure out where I am. This nice couple helped point me in the right direction. I get to the hostel and it is really busy place. There are, what look like high school boys everywhere! School trip? The reception is closed so the "manager" calls the owner. There are 2 locations for the hostel in town and he is at the other location. I talk to the owner and he says he has a place for 1 night, but not 2. I said ok, whatever it would take to get the room for that night.

The room was at the other location, so he said he would come pick me up. Ok?! He comes to get me and he turns out to be really nice. He says he only has a bed in the dorm room. I said that was fine. As we are driving, I can tell he is thinking about something. Then he said he might have something else. There is a bed in the kitchen (in the kitchen I thought, wtf). He said I might like it better, more room, but he would need to be in there at 7:30 to make breakfast. Whatever, I was tired. So I slept in the kitchen on a single bed. I thik it was normally used for staff. But I did lock the door, just in case. Just another story to add to my list od adventures!

In the morning he said he might have a room for my 2nd night, but it was back at the other location, back where I started. However, they were getting ready for vacation and no staff would be there. I was just to leave the key in the door when I left. Crazy!  You would never see something like that in the states. So I get my key and left for a day of castle touring.

This was one part of my trip I was really looking forward to. I have had a poster of the Neuschwanstein castle for about 10 years (it is the one Walt Disney based his castles off of), and now I get to see it in person! I just hope it lives up to my expectations. You know when you have built something up so much in your mind, you just hope the real thing lives up to it?

And it did just that! I visited both castles, Hohenschwangau first, then Neuschwanstein. Hohenschwangau was "Mad" King Ludwig's childhood home and gave a lot of history and background information on him, makes sense. Then it was a 40 min hike uphill to Neuschwanstein. Incredible castle! Lavish rooms and antique furniture, lots of jewels and treasures that were gifts from other royalty.

King Ludwig, it seems, was very passionate about fashion and art, and swans. He had an entire rooms dedicated to swans. He wasn't so interested in politics, and as the leader of his country, this posed a problem. Eventually his cabinet declared him insane and unfit to rule (not a far stretch since his brother actually was mentally handicapped) so he would stop spending the country's money on building his castles.

It was a great day and a new castle takes over as favorite. Like there was a doubt in that one. I got back to the hostel and see 2 girls I roomed with in Rothenburg. We grabbed some dinner and swapped traveling stories. They were heading to Munich next as well. Crazy!!

Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Salzburg, Austria

Home to The Sound of Music and Mozart. The crazies were sure out today, was it a full moon or something? The first crazy was a woman on the small train out of Hallstatt. I was sitting on the train reading my book, when I hear this commotion in the next car up. This older woman was screaming at someone, and I mean really screaming. Of course, it was all in German, so I have no idea what she was mad about. People were getting out of their seats to peer down the aisle to see what was going on. Then I guess she was finished. She gathered all her belongings and started heading into the car I was in. And where does she decide to sit? You got it, right across from me. It was one of those seats that face each other. Mind you, she is still huffing and puffing and muttering things in German. The woman across the aisle and I are exchanging looks. She seems very sympathetic. I put away my tablet and get ready to bolt if she starts in on me (it's not easy to switch seats with a 25 lb pack). She finally starts to calm herself down, but I didn't really look at her for the rest of the trip.

Then I board the train to Salzburg. It's one of those where there are several different cabins in each car. I settled down into my cabin and this guy asks if he can join me. Sure, why not? He introduces himself and asks if I am Christian. I notice the Bible in his hand and think, here we go again. I politely respond that I am not and he spends the rest of the hour long ride preaching to me with quotes from the bible. He wanted to me to become a Christian and say I believed in Jesus right there in the train car. I let him talk, partly because I was being nice, and partly because I believe in respecting others beliefs even when they don't match mine. Obviously, he does not share that belief! He really was not getting the point that he was not going to change my mind.

At one point I interjected with the fact that in America I have the right to my own religious beliefs. That's what my country was founded on. People fled to America for religious freedom, and I am proud to have that right. I told him he was not going to change my beliefs.  He got quiet for a min, but then started in again.

Then he pushed another button. He asked why was I letting the devil win, because I was not married and didn't have children. I wasn't holding back this time! I told him I was very happy with my life and I was not going to get married just because someone said I needed to. I would get married when I was ready and had found the right person. I told him I was a teacher and had 20 new kids come into my life each year that I cared about as if they were my own. I did know the joy of having children in my life. He had the gall to say teaching didn't count in that way because when I was 80 or 90 years old, who was I going to have to take care of me? I was getting very pissed off by then and didn't want to turn into the crazy lady from the before, so I just told him we would disagree on that one.

He told me God had brought him into my life today to become a Christian. I wanted to tell him that if God really brought him into my life that day, then God knew me, and knew this was SOOO NOT the way to change my mind, but I held my tongue. I was done with the crazies for the night.

Onto Salzburg itself. . . Many of the old towns I have been to have been tight fitting. Narrow streets, buildings built high, squares for traffic are roundabouts. Salzburg is very different. Everything is so spread out - the streets are wider and there is so much space in the square, but traffic doesn't seem to have a real direction. I can just imagine Salzburg in the middle of the summer with the crowds taking over the space making it disappear.

I toured Mozart's house. Lots of history about the man that I know was lost on the non-musical part of me. Sorry to all my musician friends out there. I know you would have gotten more out of it than I did. It was neat to see all the old instruments he had, and some of his original compositions. Well worth it, I just wish I had more of a background on Motzart.

I also went on The Sound of Music tour. I was really skeptical at first, but it turned out to be really fun, and with a great group of people! I learned a lot about the history of Salzburg. Then I was able to put parts of the movie to places in town, like the steps where they sing, "Doe, a deer". The tour also took us out of town to places where the movie was filmed. The guide, RoseMaria, was funny and very helpful. She said that in Salzburg the only people who really knew about the movie were those in the tourist industry. She said that her parents, like many others around Germany and Ausrtia, did not show the movie to their kids. They said it portrayed the Natzies as being too nice. It was not a realistic picture of what it was really like, so they refused to show the movie to their children. So many of the locals are not even phased by all the tourists taking over their town. Motzart tended to be a bigger deal than The Sound of Music.